Here's my last piece of the suspension puzzle to my ride. I don't care what people think about "just having a rear sway bar is fine", this front sway kicks arz! I took it for a spin on some winding roads in my area, then hit up some straightaways. It did exactly what I thought it would. If you need more of an explanation to the reason for a front sway, PM me because this is a DIY thread. I went with H&R's 26mm sway bar. Their bushings are great because there's no maintenance involved.
Install time: About 3 hours or less
1- Floor Jack and a piece of wood for support
2- Jack Stands
3- bricks or wheel stops
4- 6mm Triple Square bits (NOT torx!) Sourced from ECS Tuning (Schwaben - "Short Reach" Triple Square Driver Set ES#9013): http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...category=Tools
5- 1/2" Socket
6- 13mm Socket
7- 16mm Socket
8- 18mm Socket
9- 3/8" Socket Wrench
10- 1/2" Socket Wrench (would be helpful more than 3/8")
11- 1/2" Breaker Bar (for a-arm bolt removal)
12- 3/8" Torque Wrench (A MUST!)
13- 6" socket extender
14- Vice Grip Pliers
NOTE: PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be careful with this install as you are going to be spending a lot of time underneath the vehicle and the subframe free at one point.
1) Loosen the lug bolts on both front tires. Place bricks or wheel stops behind the rear tires. Jack up the front end of your ride on jack stands. Remove the tires.
2) Remove Endlink bolts by inserting the 6mm Triple Square Bit into the endlink bolt. Attach the 1/2" socket to the end of it. Attach 6" extention to that, then the 3/8" Socket wrench. Use vice grips to clamp down on the nut. Now you can remove the nut from the bolt.
3) Remove the bolts holding the sway bar bushings in place (13mm Socket)
4) Here's a breakdown of the mm socket for each bolt. The blue dots denote bolts you do NOT need to remove. The arrows are pointing to the two Head Subframe bolts that are recessed behind the control arm (you'll need the 6" extension for these, but DO NOT remove them yet! Only loosen them)
5) Make sure you have a jack up against this subframe with a piece of wood in between at this point.
6) Remove all the bolts highlighted in red except for the Head Subframe bolts I told you about. You only need to loosen the Dog Bone mount retainer bolt (listed in yellow writing from step 4) and turn the bracket around so it clears the Dog Bone Mount
7) I recommend using a 1/2" socket breaker bar for these two a-arm bolts, they're tough to loosen.
8 ) With all the bolts removed except for the two Head Subframe Bolts, and the jack is in place holding the subframe, remove those two Head Subframe Bolts. At this point, the subframe should only be held up by the jack (with the wood in between for support).
9) I also removed the HID leveler arm just in case before lowering the jack (7/16" box wrench and a 10mm socket will remove the nut, but make sure the leveler joint is facing the driver's side after you're done). Lower the jack SLOWLY! It's good to have a friend on hand to help you eye the clearance that you need over the Head subframe arms to get the sway bar out. Don't worry about the bracket holding the turbo-back exhaust arms, it won't be damaged.
10) Once you get enough clearance, remove the stock bar. Place the bushings that came with your new bar on. Slide the top portion of the supplied brackets on top of the bushings. Put the new Sway bar in and let hang (don't worry about the lower brackets or securing the bar yet).
11) Jack up the subframe enough to start threading all the bolts back in reverse order to hand tight positions.
12) Now you can place the lower portion of the bracket in place and thread the bracket bolts back through. (if you bought the H&R Bar, the nut will face into the bracket with the thinner side...this will lock the nut in place with the way the bracket hole is shaped). Re-attach the endlinks to the 'lighter' (outer) or 'stiffer' (inner) hole.
13) Torque bolts to specified values. Here's a breakdown of the torque specs:
TORQUE TO YIELD SPECS BY NUMBER:
("torque to yield" means, torque to specified lbs, then turn each bolt to specified degree)
1- 52LBS + 45 DEGREES
2- 37LBS + 45 DEGREES
3- 52LBS + 45 DEGREES
4- 15LBS + 45 DEGREES
5- 52LBS + 45 DEGREES
6- 74LBS + 45 DEGREES
7- 52LBS + 45 DEGREES
8- 44LBS (30LBS IF YOU HAVE VF ENGINEERING MOUNT FOR CENTER BOLT)
And you're all done. Enjoy that your front end will no longer jump up when you launch. Enjoy that you take heading out of corners faster. Enjoy lessening the whiplash transfer effect from front to rear when cornering.