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: Coltello MkV Build Thread



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Coltello
04-12-2013, 12:10 PM
Boost leak. Check boost hoses, and the dv.

Also, you can scan individual control modules lol


for the P0299:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665

Possible Symptoms
Reduced Power Output
Limp Mode
Possible Causes
Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected or leaking
Charger Pressure Control defective
Turbocharger faulty
Diverter Valve faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control
Check Turbocharger
Check Diverter Valve
Special Notes
When found in 2.0l TFSI:
Check Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249), for cracked rubber diaphragm. A new/optimized Valve is available under Part # 06H-145-710-D (or newer).
RoW vehicles see: TPI 2016331 for details.
NAR vehicles see: TSB 01-07-70 or 2013392 for details.
When stored in conjunction with misfire codes and/or fuel trim faults see the notes associated with the following faults regarding PCV failure: Crankcase Breather Valve
If the Turbocharger is faulty due to mechanical / internal problems or the exhaust system is restricted (typically the Catalyst) this fault may be the end result.
When found in VW Golf/Jetta (1K): 2.0l CR-TDI (CBEA/CJAA):
Verify the mechanical part of the Exhaust Valve Control Module (J883) is not siezed or binding.

I'll check the hoses. I don't think it's the dv since I installed the rev D last year. I almost feel like it was a fluke thing since I was switching back and forth between D and Sport while driving kind of like a jerk racing my gf for fun. Thanks for the responses. I couldn't find that portion of the Ross Tech site yesterday. I'm having my timing belt done soon so I'll have them give the engine a once over too. It'll be easy since they'll have the thing apart and on a lift.

kootenaydub
04-12-2013, 12:13 PM
google ross tech wiki, then search the code in the search box, quickest way

Coltello
04-13-2013, 09:44 AM
google ross tech wiki, then search the code in the search box, quickest way

Yeah, usually I don't have a problem but I think I was just stupid caused by frustration.

Anyway, I'm dropping my car off Wednesday to have the ECS timing belt kit done and they're gonna run a smoke test while it's there. On a side note, yesterday I did some pulls, spiked at about 17 and held strong at 15. This is exactly where it's been since I got the boost gauge so if there's a boost leak somewhere, it's tiny and consistent. haha.

Coltello
04-19-2013, 05:18 PM
I brought my car into the shop for a timing belt, drive belt, and water pump change. I also asked them to do a smoke test. They found a small connector that had worked it's way loose which probably explains my under boost CEL. But now they say there's a P0100 fault code. I found some info here:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16484/P0100/000256

I was just wondering if anyone had this problem, if it was something related to the work on the engine, or if there's an easier (cheaper) solution than replacing the MAF. I don't think the shop did anything wrong, I just don't know if there's something we're missing. Relevant info: They said the car runs great, pulls hard, and the CEL light with that code comes back on as soon as they turn the key. If they clear it, it just comes back the next time. Any ideas?

kootenaydub
04-19-2013, 05:38 PM
I think you might be able to test the MAF with a multimeter to see if it's toast. Did they have to disconnect the sensor for the work? I'd take it out, give the connections the good ol' nintendo blow, and use some sensor kleen on the maf. If you can swing it, swap in a working maf and see if that changes anything.

Coltello
04-19-2013, 06:57 PM
I think you might be able to test the MAF with a multimeter to see if it's toast. Did they have to disconnect the sensor for the work? I'd take it out, give the connections the good ol' nintendo blow, and use some sensor kleen on the maf. If you can swing it, swap in a working maf and see if that changes anything.

I had them start it, check the idle, then shut it down, then unplug it, then start it and check the idle again. They said the idle was only 500 RPM's higher without it plugged in and it never ran rough (plugged or unplugged). I'm gonna pick up some MAF cleaner on the way back from the shop tomorrow, give it a good spray down and see what happens. I'm thinking (hoping) it managed to get some dirty type dirt in it during the tear down/rebuild for the belts.

Believe it or not, I don't know a single local person with a GTI...Crazy right?

Coltello
04-21-2013, 07:33 AM
Ok, so after going down to the shop and driving the car it was readily apparent what was going on. I am currently sitting in stock ECU mode which, I believe, was reset after the battery was disconnected for so long. I am awaiting an email response from Josh at NAM. Here's why I think I'm in stock mode: I'm only boosting to about 7 lbs and holding. The power band is different than stage 2, and the car is noticeably slower. I also believe this would explain the P0100 error code since the stock ECU is freaking out about the 3" catless dp.

Back to slow mode for now. I hope I can get this fixed Monday or Tuesday.

boostedJTi
04-21-2013, 04:00 PM
Ok, so after going down to the shop and driving the car it was readily apparent what was going on. I am currently sitting in stock ECU mode which, I believe, was reset after the battery was disconnected for so long. I am awaiting an email response from Josh at NAM. Here's why I think I'm in stock mode: I'm only boosting to about 7 lbs and holding. The power band is different than stage 2, and the car is noticeably slower. I also believe this would explain the P0100 error code since the stock ECU is freaking out about the 3" catless dp.

Back to slow mode for now. I hope I can get this fixed Monday or Tuesday.

I thought factory boost was 12-14lbs?

csmith1957
04-21-2013, 04:55 PM
I thought factory boost was 12-14lbs?

I think mine is 5-10.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

boostedJTi
04-21-2013, 05:32 PM
I think mine is 5-10.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

Got jipped because the mkiv awp is 11 lol

csmith1957
04-21-2013, 05:44 PM
Got jipped because the mkiv awp is 11 lol

I actually don't know what mine is truly stock. I got the boost gauge after I went stage 2, so that's in "stock mode" with all off my bolt ons. I don't really even boost that high in pump mode. Around 15-20. Someone commented on one of my YouTube videos and said I need an upgraded DV because I'm not holding boost.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

Coltello
04-22-2013, 04:47 AM
I thought factory boost was 12-14lbs?


I think mine is 5-10.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2



Got jipped because the mkiv awp is 11 lol


I actually don't know what mine is truly stock. I got the boost gauge after I went stage 2, so that's in "stock mode" with all off my bolt ons. I don't really even boost that high in pump mode. Around 15-20. Someone commented on one of my YouTube videos and said I need an upgraded DV because I'm not holding boost.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

Well, I believe that my boost gauge reads a bit low. With stage 2, and since I had stage 2, I boost to about 17, then hold at 15. I've heard APR stage 2 people say they hit higher and that the gauge must be off. To which I responded, "I don't really care as long as it's consistent." So, if I'm hitting about 7 and holding at 5, it would make sense to me to hear that stock boost is actually a bit higher.

New development here though...Josh saw me post in another forum and replied that I shouldn't even have stock ECU mode as an option. So I'm gonna have to head over there and see what he can see. Again, I don't think it's limp mode bc it happened as soon as they turned the key the first time.

Coltello
04-22-2013, 12:22 PM
My MAF. Quick fix?9254

kootenaydub
04-22-2013, 12:27 PM
Electrical tape or some small heat-shrink wrap tube.

How the heck did that happen with the wiring covering? Does it look like the covering was wearing on the wire?

Coltello
04-22-2013, 03:29 PM
Electrical tape or some small heat-shrink wrap tube.

How the heck did that happen with the wiring covering? Does it look like the covering was wearing on the wire?

The wiring cover is peeled back. I'm gonna tape it tonight pending my major malfunctions.

Coltello
04-22-2013, 03:56 PM
I'm dropping it back off at the mechanic bc it's not the tune. Hopefully it's not terrible and just something that wasn't put back on. <insert colorful aggressive angry expletives>

Coltello
05-28-2013, 07:58 PM
Ordered a red LED for my hatch which completes my LED conversion.

Got this one:

http://www.tunerdomes.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=149

Coltello
05-30-2013, 11:59 AM
I ordered speakers today from Crutchfield. Here's what I got:

Front
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CS44/Kicker-40CS44.html

Rear
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB651/Polk-Audio-db651.html

I also got some Dynamat to put in the door. I'll have to do some research to find the best place to install that. Any tips?

Jsilva970
05-30-2013, 04:21 PM
why did you only get 4 inch for the front ?

Coltello
05-30-2013, 11:40 PM
why did you only get 4 inch for the front ?

The MkV has a four inch in the door metal, a 6.5 in sub that's attached to the door trim, and a tweeter in the A frame apparently. So the 6.5" that's attached to the door trim requires some custom work and Crutchfield doesn't have any specific info for it. So I'm going to do the 4", see what I'm dealing with for the 6.5", check the sound of the stereo, and weigh my options.